Chefs
Noma, Rated the World’s Best Restaurant, Is Closing Its Doors
Since opening two decades ago, Noma — the Copenhagen restaurant currently serving grilled reindeer heart on a bed of fresh pine, and saffron ice cream in a beeswax bowl — has transformed fine dining. A new global class of gastro tourists schedules first-class flights and entire vacations around the privilege of paying at least $500 […]
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In ‘The Bear’ on Hulu, a Kitchen Staff Is Nearly Eaten Alive
Movies and TV shows about the inner workings of the culinary world have let us peek into restaurant kitchens before. But FX’s new “The Bear” is the first to force you to work in one. As the series (streaming on Hulu) opens, the young chef Carmen Berzatto has left behind a soaring career, replete with […]
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Pass the Chowder, and the Curry: Jamaican Chefs Add to Cape Cod’s Culinary Delights
At the Jerk Cafe, a storefront tucked into a strip mall in the Cape Cod village of South Yarmouth, Mass., sweet-smelling smoke greets guests as soon as they open the front door. So does the cafe’s proprietor, Glenroy Burke, who bounces around the wide-open kitchen stirring pots, tending the grill and plating dishes. “I don’t […]
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A Tennessee Deli Nurtures Its Ties to Ukraine
KNOXVILLE, Tenn. — When Russia invaded Ukraine, Laurence Faber and Emily Williams’s first reaction was to cook borscht. Ukrainian flags had yet to spread across the American lawn-scape, and Potchke, the couple’s Ukrainian-inspired deli, had yet to open in this eastern Tennessee city. They cooked the soup in response to the horror overtaking the peaceful […]
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Guy Fieri, Elder Statesman of Flavortown
MIDDLETOWN TOWNSHIP, N.J. — Guy Fieri looks as if he has prepared his whole life to be a middle-aged rock star. He has grays in the famous goatee now, a faint tan line beneath his chain necklace and a pair of hulking middle-finger rings that do not slow his incorrigible fist-bumping. He talks about the […]
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Afghan Restaurateurs Provide Hope to Refugees Fleeing the Taliban
Hamasa Ebadi, 27, and her parents, Hamida, 58, and Atiq, 60, opened the tiny restaurant in the fall of 2020, inside a former bubble-tea shop. And Assad Akbari, the former longtime general manager and chef at the Helmand, has announced plans to open his own Afghan restaurant this year, on the same street. Ms. Ebadi […]
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Restaurant Review: Mena in TriBeCa
Not every great chef cooks in a great restaurant. Some never do. Until she opened Mena in January, Victoria Blamey was probably New York City’s leading example of a chef who was better than the restaurants that hired her. With Mena, she finally has a great restaurant. Because she’s an owner and because she doesn’t […]
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A Fast, Frugal Track to Culinary School? Community College.
HAVERHILL, Mass. — The students all wore white chef coats, houndstooth pants and short toques as they tasted their lamb tagines for salt. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the sleek kitchen framed a sweeping view of the Merrimack River. Here, north of Boston in the culinary school at Northern Essex Community College, the students will learn about […]
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America’s Next Great Restaurants Are in the Suburbs. But Can They Thrive There?
Megan Curren, 35, an owner of the Graceful Ordinary, a fine-dining restaurant in St. Charles, Ill., said that while many Chicago restaurants are still hurting financially because of the pandemic, St. Charles’s are recovering faster. Spaces like hers have plentiful room for outdoor dining, she said, and people are moving into — not out of […]
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