Islands

A Herd in Exile: Riding Horses on Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago

With a map in one hand and a cold beer in the other, I sat alone at the bar of the Baobab Beach Backpackers Lodge in the coastal town of Vilankulo, gazing out at the sweeping sandbars and vivid turquoise waters that surround Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago. I’d planned to leave the following morning for Zimbabwe, […]

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A Portrait of South Georgia: Abundance, Exploitation, Recovery

Sally Poncet first came to South Georgia in 1977. Back then, she said, the sub-Antarctic island was as gorgeous as it is today: A spine of mountains, some 100 miles long, defines the terrain; glaciers drape down from the peaks, with verdant slopes running up to meet them; glistening beaches wrap around the shoreline. But […]

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Six Days Afloat in the Everglades

From a distance, the mouth of the creek was indistinguishable from the thick tangle of mangroves that concealed it — as if the narrow waterway were only willing to reveal itself to those who knew to look. We approached attentively, unhurriedly, scanning the banks for alligators and wading birds. Twenty feet in front of us, […]

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As Its Population Soars to 40, Rum Isle Glimpses a Future in the Mist

With four new families recently arriving, the remote and rainy island in the Hebrides is experiencing its version of a population surge, although residents new and old concede living here isn’t easy. ISLE OF RUM, Scotland — No doctors. No restaurants. No churches. And worst of all for some: no pubs. Life on a remote […]

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