Jordan
In Jordan, ‘Mansaf in a Cup’ Creates a Food Controversy
AMMAN, Jordan — The idea struck the restaurateur like a bolt of lightning after he spilled food on his suit while eating in his car. What if he were to take Jordan’s national dish — a milky mountain of mutton and rice called mansaf, which is traditionally eaten by hand from a large communal platter […]
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Rumbling Through Modern Jordan, a Railway From the Past
AMMAN, Jordan — Astride century-old tracks that cut through the modern metropolis of Amman, a historic train blared a horn to announce its departure. That sound spurred families bearing bags of food, pots of coffee, coolers of soda, grills, hookahs and lots of children into action, scrambling up iron ladders to settle into the train’s […]
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A Photographer’s View of Jordan’s Many Splendors
In September 2021, after more than two years without traveling, my girlfriend and I decided to take a trip to Jordan — mainly to see the ancient city of Petra. For 10 days we traveled through the country from north to south in a rental car, tallying around 760 miles. Our itinerary took us along […]
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On Syria’s Ruins, a Drug Empire Flourishes
BEIRUT, Lebanon — Built on the ashes of 10 years of war in Syria, an illegal drug industry run by powerful associates and relatives of President Bashar al-Assad has grown into a multibillion-dollar operation, eclipsing Syria’s legal exports and turning the country into the world’s newest narcostate. Its flagship product is captagon, an illegal, addictive […]
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