This story is a part of Picture’s October Abundance difficulty, reveling in indulgence, maximalism and the deliciously impractical.
On a Wednesday night in August, Celeste Perkins walked into El Atacor #1 in Cypress Park holding a towering three-tiered cake, frosted in American buttercream and airbrushed in oversaturated hues of purple, inexperienced and blue. Thick, extreme piping created an otherworldly texture on the cake’s surfaces. Metallic sweet pearls gleamed beneath the fluorescent lights. The dessert’s colours and enthusiasm took inspiration from the playful, acid-dream work of Angeleno artist Isaac Psalm Escoto, often known as Sickid, for whom the cake was made.
Escoto, Perkins’ finest pal, was turning 27 and having his birthday celebration on the legendary fried potato taco joint. El Atacor #1 is frequented by children from the neighborhood, who play with the classic pinball machines, and drunken overflow from one of many bars down the road. That night, a member of the latter group caught his eye on Perkins’ cake and began to get excited.
“Cut the cake!” the stranger referred to as throughout the room to Escoto, who smiled again nervously. He approached the birthday boy, swaying. “YO! When are you going to cut the cake?”
The cake, it appeared, was upstaging the visitor of honor. However that’s what you join once you order a Celeste Perkins cake. “You look at her cakes and you’re just like — holy s—,” says Escoto, who has been pals with Perkins since highschool. “They’re like straight out of a cartoon.”
With out query, Perkins — who’s a company expertise acquisition supervisor by day — makes truffles with large personalities, for large personalities. Final yr, she made a cake for Mitski when the singer carried out on the Hollywood Bowl: a frosted diorama of the venue with vibrant orange florals exploding like fireworks from the buttercream edifice and Mitski’s viewers depicted as cats and canines. (That was a request from the artist.) Perkins additionally made a cake for Suki Waterhouse on the Greek Theatre, which reimagined the venue as a verdant, fairy-tale oasis, overflowing with glittering greenery and florals, with an edible picture of Suki overlooking the tableau like a beached mermaid. It mimicked the duvet artwork for Waterhouse’s album, “Memoir of a Sparklemuffin.”
Perkins’ eye-catching truffles are sometimes wacky and absurd. And with such exact artistic imaginative and prescient, you’d suppose she’d been doing it for some time. However the baker born and raised in L.A. first began making truffles significantly in 2022, when she was gifted a set of cake pans by a pal. As a thanks, Perkins made her first cake with these pans for that pal — two tiers blanketed in swirling pastel frosting and studded with actual flowers and contemporary raspberries. “I brought the cake out at the party and so many people at the party were like, ‘Who made that? Where did you get a cake like that?’” she remembers. The effusive response shocked her, particularly in L.A., the place, Perkins says, “People are so quick to withhold a compliment.”
Celeste celebrating along with her finest pal, Issac and the birthday cake she made for him.
So she saved making them, inspired by the rave opinions: A chocolate cake for Escoto’s twenty fourth birthday, airbrushed in psychedelic blue and inexperienced and embellished with gummy bears. A shimmering Christmas cake for a vacation social gathering. A Lana Del Rey-themed cake with a single candle, embellished to appear like a cigarette, protruding of the singer’s mouth. “I was really enjoying the vibe of ‘no rules,’” Perkins says. Though she labored very briefly for a private chef, she didn’t get any formal coaching. “If you ask me the number of a single piping tip, I wouldn’t be able to tell you.”
Certainly, it will be tough to search out the sorts of avant-garde truffles Perkins makes in a grocery retailer and even within the fridge of an area bakery. They’re not essentially business. In actual fact, they embody a maximalist pattern in cake ornament that impressed one author on the Minimize to put in writing a cranky takedown final July titled “Enough With the Ugly Cakes.”
“These shapeless mounds are slathered with icing and rammed with bits of inedible flora, as if excavated off the forest floor and into a niche online bakery,” opines Bindu Bansinath in her piece, which predictably upset lots of the bakers it addresses. “The future isn’t always progress.”
Perkins, in fact, begs to vary. “Maximalism is fun. I don’t want to live in a beige house. I like things that are over the top. You can call it camp. You can call it tacky. I just think it’s fun,” she says. She references the oft-quoted recommendation of Coco Chanel: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” In terms of truffles, Perkins rejects the rule. “What if I put five more things on? What if I did 10 more things than they asked for?”
It helps that the truffles make for nice pictures — and shocking standing symbols, ephemeral as they’re. The yr she began making her “ugly” truffles, Perkins additionally began to publish them to Instagram. Rising up in Los Angeles, and going to a artistic arts highschool in downtown, she had inadvertently amassed a small viewers of well-connected “it” women, social gathering pals and up-and-comers in artistic industries. They hearted her images and gushed within the feedback, prompting the algorithm to push her truffles out to the uncover pages of extra influential individuals.
“I think a lot of people don’t realize that I have a day job. Even people that I’ve grown up with, they just assume I’m doing cakes full time,” she says. “People close to me know the crazy hustle I rock because I work in West L.A. So I leave my house at 7:50 a.m. and I don’t get [back] home till 7 p.m. And then when I get home I, you know, clock in for my cake shift.”
(Courtesy of Celeste Perkins)
Perkins’ first large fee was for the duvet of Paper Journal’s fortieth anniversary difficulty, which featured a unadorned NLE Choppa who used the cake to cowl his NSFW physique components. Silhouettes of busty fashions adorned the perimeters of the cake, and the phrases “Happy Birthday Paper” emblazoned on high of it in colourful chocolate letters.
“I found out on a Monday morning that I needed to have it done Wednesday morning,” Perkins says. “I went to bed at like maybe 5 a.m. and I had to be up at 7:30. Oh my God. I literally asked my mom to drive me to work that day.”
After which there was a DM from somebody at Sub Pop, wanting a cake for the album launch social gathering of Tunde Adebimpe, additionally frontman for the band TV on the Radio. Perkins made a glowing black cake and created a crater that was studded with pop rocks. The following week, she bumped into Adebimpe at Vidiots and launched herself because the cake baker.
“I grew up with my brother listening to TV on the Radio on the way to school,” Perkins says. “Obviously, I’m not, like, friends with any of these people, and who knows if they’ll remember me after they eat the cake. But to have this little moment of humanization for both me and for them — to put a face to the cake — is so cool.”
Escoto’s birthday celebration at El Atacor #1 — so near the home the place Perkins grew up — was, in some ways, a full circle second. The very best pals met on the artistic arts highschool the place Escoto studied visible arts and Perkins realized dance. However, despite the fact that so many individuals round her had artistic skilled ambitions — her mom was a dressmaker and her brother is a musician — she by no means discovered her personal “thing,” and ended up in company recruiting accidentally. Her journey to cake making wasn’t simply nontraditional. It was sudden.
A few of Celeste Perkins’ cake creations. (Courtesy of Celeste Perkins)
At El Atacor #1, Perkins rigorously positioned the extra-long candles alongside every tier of the cake and lit them up for Escoto to blow out. Inside, it was all Oreo, layered with Oreo American buttercream frosting — a mirrored image of Escoto’s choice for nostalgic flavors.
“It feels like such an act of love,” mentioned Escoto of his birthday truffles through the years. “It’s extremely gratifying to watch her finding the thing that she loves and taking it extremely seriously … to see this person transform into a serious person who does their craft out of nothing but pure excitement and ambition and seriousness for aesthetics. For her to do that for me is really f—ing special.”
Inspired both by Escoto’s impish grin or the cake’s playful spirit, somebody pushed his face into the cake — with simply sufficient pressure to cowl his face in frosting however not sufficient to topple it over. He took a selfie with the cake, flashing vibrant blue enamel, proper earlier than Perkins reduce into her intergalactic confection, the middle dense with cookies and cream.
Company lit up with infantile pleasure and impatience. The place is it from? Which bakery? They requested Escoto. They have been astounded after they realized the cake artist was amongst us. Somebody requested Perkins in regards to the colours, how she bought the frosting to look the best way it did. It’s all airbrushed. Once they ran out of plates, she began shoving slices into plastic cups. Perkins didn’t even actually get to look at anybody eat the cake; by the point she was performed slicing, it was gone.
Tasbeeh Herwees is a author born and raised in Los Angeles.
